Sathya Saran is entranced by Jodhpur.
The first thing you notice as you turn into Jodhpur is the fort. Mehrangarh Fort is the spirit of Jodhpur. It sits atop the hill surveying the city that lies at its feet: This sentinel has sprawled there from the time the houses were only those that were washed with blue, to the present when dizzying shapes with modern amenities have become the favoured mode of architecture.

HARI MAHAL PALACE The first thing you notice about the Hari Mahal Palace as you stop at the porch, is the fabulous arched glass window that spans the massive doorway, created by model-photographer-turned-artist Malvika Tiwari. In its intricacies — that you will be sure to be study while you cool your heels in the lobby some time during your visit — is the key to the intricacy of the city.
In true Rajput tradition, Hari Mahal, a Taj Leisure Hotel, throws down a gauntlet at the more-established and well-known Umaid Bhavan. If Umaid Bhavan is a palace that has been turned into a hotel, Hari Mahal claims in practice, to be a hotel that makes like a palace. In short, it treats its visitors like royalty.
Which means that right from the moment you step past the great doors, the ambience is decidedly regal. The style of architecture, reminiscent of Madore, has intricately-carved arches and wide terraces and balconies.
The awesome tapestries on the walls take you back to another world, even as the rooms, with their completely modern amenities, soothe you into a feeling of comfort and keep you in touch with the present. However, though it is recommended that you do not switch on the television set, if you want to make a real getaway into the past.
Settle instead, for the puppet show that is presented every evening at the Verandah Restaurant that serves kababs and barbequed fare, the fragrance of which will waft through the windows, should you keep them open to the monsoon winds.
EAT JODHPUR Indeed, food in Rajasthan is quite a different experience from that in other parts of the country, and at the Marwar Restaurant, you can find some finger-licking good Marwari food. Highly recommended is the ‘thali’, in which the ‘rotis’ are fluffy and the spices unusual.
All served with little fuss and much local hospitality, with soulful ‘ghazals’ in the background. Perhaps one testament to the authenticity of the cuisine is the fact that locals drop in for celebrations or just to get a break from the kitchen chores.
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